How do I replace the fuel pump on a 2007 Chevrolet Corvette C6?

Replacing the fuel pump on a C6 Corvette is a notoriously involved job due to the saddle-tank design and the tight packaging around the rear drivetrain.

Difficulty: Hard Safety Warnings: You will be working with raw fuel and electrical components. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting, work in a well-ventilated area, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby. If you are doing this on jack stands, ensure the car is completely stable, as you'll be wrestling with the exhaust and potentially the rear subframe.

Here is what you need to know to get this done, combining general service procedures with specific quirks and workarounds from the C6 community.

1. Understanding the C6 Fuel System & Parts

The C6 uses two fuel tanks. The driver’s side (left) tank holds the main electric fuel pump, while the passenger side (right) tank has a venturi transfer pump ². If you are replacing the pump to fix the dreaded "gas smell," the new updated pumps feature a better design to prevent the plastic from cracking at the top hose connection ².

Part Numbers & Compatibility:

• Main Left Pump: One thread notes the left side fuel pump part number as 19420860 ⁴.
• Sender Warning: Be extremely careful ordering parts. In 2007, GM changed the design of the fuel sender, reversing the resistance readings as the level goes from full to empty ². You must ensure your new pump/sender assembly is specifically matched to a 2007+ model, or your fuel gauge will read backwards.

2. Accessing the Pump (The Teardown)

The official GM factory service manual procedure generally calls for dropping the entire rear drivetrain (transmission, differential, and cradle) to remove the fuel tanks.

However, if you are only replacing the driver's side main pump, the community consensus is that you can often get the job done by just removing the exhaust system and the driver's side rear wheel and tire ².

General steps for the bypass method:

1. Depressurize the fuel system (pull the fuel pump relay and crank the engine until it stalls) and disconnect the battery.
2. Drain as much fuel as possible from the driver's side tank.
3. Remove the rear driver's side wheel and the inner fender liner.
4. Drop the exhaust mid-pipe and mufflers to give yourself clearance.
5. Remove the metal shielding around the fuel tank.

3. The Crossover Tube (The Hardest Part)

The two tanks are connected by a crossover tube that runs above the transmission. Disconnecting this is usually the most frustrating part of the job.

• You have to rotate the locking collar on the crossover tube to release it from the tank.
• Inside this tube are corrugated internal fuel lines. Be incredibly careful with these. When reassembling, these internal lines must seat perfectly into their brackets inside the tank. If they twist out of their bracket during installation, you will get zero fuel pressure at the rail even with a running pump ³.

4. Swapping the Pump

Once the crossover tube is detached and the strap is loosened, you can maneuver the tank down and out.

1. Clean the top of the tank thoroughly before opening the locking ring so no dirt falls inside.
2. Remove the old pump assembly.
3. Ensure all O-rings on the new pump are present and generously lubricated before installation ³.
4. Check the braided fuel line coming out of the new pump. It is very easy to accidentally kink this line during installation, which will completely block fuel flow to the engine ³.

Note: I don't have the verified torque specs for the tank straps or the exhaust hardware for your specific year, so check a factory service manual before final assembly to ensure everything is tightened to spec safely.

5. Reassembly Gotchas

• Take your time reconnecting the crossover tube. If it fights you, don't force it. The internal lines are likely binding.
• If your car is equipped with the NPP (dual-mode) exhaust, pay close attention to the vacuum lines when reinstalling the tank. It is very easy to accidentally pinch the NPP vacuum line between the tank and the chassis ².
• Before putting the exhaust and wheels back on, reconnect the battery, add a few gallons of fuel, and prime the pump (turn key to ON without starting) a few times. Check for leaks at the crossover tube and listen for the pump running. Check the fuel rail Schrader valve to confirm you have pressure.